It’s not often that you can use the word “unique” in such a literal context, but as this is the only UK lightship that you can stay on it’s quite justified. Whilst still being true to its working ship origins, with exposed metal ribs, sloping floors, opening portholes and hatches, and stairways that you navigate backwards, Sula is about as far as you can get from the cold harsh life that it once saw on the North Sea. The cabins are as warm and welcoming as the hosts, who have transformed this vessel into a perfect floating getaway. From the exquisite shower-room, with a huge walk-in shower, to the cosy double bedrooms and open-plan lounge, kitchen and dining area, no detail has been overlooked. The ship is securely moored at the side of the wide canal, so there’s no danger of sea sickness, but it still feels alive with slurps and splashes against the hull and creaks in the masts. The highlight has to be sitting out on the top deck, watching the sun set and the stars come out, warm under a blanket — passers-by all turning to admire the ship and wave or take a photograph. A totally unique and wonderful experience.